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MV Roots: A Conversation with Chef Matt Abdoo

Executive chef extraordinaire, co-owner of Pig Beach BBQ with locations in NYC, Boston, and Palm Beach, co-author of the cookbook, guest chef on NBC’s TODAY, slayer of Bobby Flay, Food Network personality and judge—his successes go on and on. Matt’s a big deal in the culinary world. 

Before barbecue, Matt was a fine-dining chef, Relais & Châteaux level, earning four-star reviews from The New York Times. Before that, he was valedictorian at the Culinary Institute of America. Before that, he learned to cook alongside the mothers in his life.

Matt lives a fast-paced, high-profile life outside the Mohawk Valley, but part of his heart is still here—he even keeps a 315 area code.

Matt’s responses made me laugh, and at times, well up, sensing his genuine sentimentality for the Mohawk Valley. I hope one or both of those emotions will strike you as you read about his MV Roots.

 

How did you find your culinary path? 

I’ve loved cooking since I was little. I’m half Italian and half Lebanese, and both my grandmas and my mom made amazing food my whole life. I loved how it brought family and friends together. But it wasn’t until I was in high school, watching Emeril Live, that I realized that it would be a dream come true if I could do what I love and inspire people to get as excited about cooking as I was.

 

Was there someone who nurtured your interest? 

My parents were always very supportive of my cooking and gave me the freedom to destroy our kitchen while I was experimenting with making what I may have watched on a cooking show. But the biggest catalyst was when I made a cake for my mom that she brought to a faculty party at Perry Junior High, where both my parents worked. It got the attention of many teachers, who then asked where she bought it. When she said, “Matthew made it,” one teacher, Ralph Polito, perked up and asked, “Does he like to cook?” My mom said, “Oh my God, I can’t stop him!” Ralph asked, “Do you think he would ever want to work at Café CaNole? I’m close with the family and happy to ask if they need extra help!”

Soon after, my mom got a call from Mr. Polito telling me to be at Café CaNole at 6 a.m.! I couldn’t even drive yet, so my mom had to drop me off! I was fortunate to have Dean and Jason Nole take an inexperienced 15-year-old under their wing.

 

Were there any early jobs that played a key role?

Hands down, working with Dean and Jay at Café CaNole. 

On my first day, Dean and Jay had me washing dishes as they began their morning preparing cake orders. The whip attachment from the massive Hobart mixer landed on the table for me to clean, and it had a bit of their famous chocolate Godiva cream clinging to it. I cautiously swiped a finger and thought I was in heaven!

When they finished their cakes, Dean came over to me with a pastry bag and a five-gallon bucket of cannoli cream. He asked if I’d filled cannoli before. I said no, but I’d used a pastry bag. He brought me to the corner of the kitchen, where he had two boxes of their homemade shells, and told me to fill two sheet trays. I was in heaven—again! I couldn’t help but sneak a little cannoli cream on my fingertip, and I remember thinking this was the coolest experience in the world!

 

Where do you think your work ethic comes from? 

Without a doubt, my dad! He worked two jobs while raising four boys. Dad never missed a soccer game, track meet, or any of my milestones. If I become half the man my dad is by the time I die, I’ll have lived a successful life! Love you, Dad!

My mom raised four boys in a house where all the friends came to hang out and eat—I really don’t know how she did it. My brothers and I were blessed with an incredibly loving home and that’s where we get our strength!

 

How do you describe the Mohawk Valley?

It’s unlike any place you’ve ever been! The best food, the best people, and so peaceful. It’s an incredible place to grow up and raise a family!

 

Outside of your family’s kitchen, where do you like to eat?

Café CaNole and Café Del Buono for Italian food, and Killabrew for wings! Tony’s Pizza, O’Scugnizzo, and Karam’s—I love them!

 

Is there a specific dish or drink that you look forward to when you come home?

Chicken riggies and Utica greens—no one makes them like they do back home. Tomato pie, halfmoons, and Utica Club beer.

 

When you pull back into town, what do you look forward to doing?

Growing up, we were blessed with skiing at Woods Valley, golfing at Skenandoa, and when we got older, hanging out at Props or Killabrew. I love going back to those places and seeing my friends. More than anything, I enjoy my time with my family!

 

What kitchen utensil is most important to you?

You can do just about anything with a great chef’s knife and a pair of metal tongs!

 

Any advice for someone interested in your culinary track?

If you pursue what you love, it never feels like work! If you love cooking, there is nothing more rewarding than making a dish that solidifies a moment in time for someone and brings a smile to their face. It’s the greatest feeling when someone says, “We celebrated a birthday, an anniversary, got engaged, or had a baby shower at your place.” Knowing that we’ve become a part of people’s lives is special.

 

If you could say one thing to the Mohawk Valley, what would it be? 

I miss you all, and from the bottom of my heart, thank you to everyone for shaping, supporting, and mentoring me into the person I am today! You are all forever in my heart. The Mohawk Valley is truly a special place, and no matter where I am in the world, it will always be home!

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